BVM Jets Tips and Instructions


BVM F-100 Chute Box Assembly Instructions




Begin by cutting out the door opening shown here. There are a pair of scribe lines on the bottom of the fuse that define the door shape. Cut only up to the lines allowing extra material for fitting the doors later. Turn the fuse over and place the chute box over the door opening. Looking thru the door opening from the outside of the fuse, carefully center the box flanges in the door opening. Holding the box in place, centered, trace around the box flange with a Sharpee marker. This will help keep the box centered after the doors are taped in place.





The photo shows the two door barrel hinges glued and ready to install. Use Aeropoxy to glue the hinge barrels the chute box doors. Sand a slight bevel on the outermost edge of the doors and thoroughly rough the brass tubes before gluing. Allow the epoxy to cure fully.






Tape the chute doors in place after carefully fitting them to the outer fuselage door cutout.







Working from the inside of the fuse, carefully position the chute box over the door hinge pins and the door opening. Be sure the box is centered in the chute door opening (check the Sharpee outline you traced earlier. Brace the box in position using some scrap pieces of balsa wood. Make a glue fillet along the inside of the fuse and over the flange of the chute box using Aeropoxy. Allow the epoxy to cure before removing the balsa sticks.








Turn the fuse over and glue the fiberglass door stop in place where shown on the left hand door.






 The doors should now look like the picture at left. Notice the latch showing in the lower right portion of the photo. The latch will install next.






The photo to the left shows the latch assembly in the proper position against the bottom of the fuse. The pin is thru the front side of the box just above the flange with the front of the latch against the flange. Test the spring latch assembly by holding the latch assembly against the fuse and pulling on the nyrod. The latch should move freely back and forth with the latch pin engaging and disengaging the chute door block. Adjust the latch and the pin height to ensure no binding occurs. Glue the latch assembly in place onto the fuse bottom using aeropoxy  along the sides of the latch only!  You may tack the latch in place using thick CA glue. DO NOT ALLOW THE CA TO RUN UNDER THE LATCH !  Allow the aeropoxy to cure completely.




The photo to the left shows the proper orientation for the door latch. Slightly offset from the outer door. The latch pin should engage the door block shown below after it is mounted to the outer door. Glue the door latch block in place so that the pin from the latch just passes all the way thru the block. The door block is shown below mounted in it's approx. location on the outer door. The door has been removed from the aircraft for clarity.




Route the cable nyrods as shown to the left. Make braces for each end of the outer blue or red nyrod guide using scrap 1/8" ply, gluing in place where shown.  You can see the the door latch in the center of the photo just past the end of the lower nyrod. Notice the lower nyrod is not braced on the latch end. This allows the latch to be moved manually when repacking and resetting the chute box.






This close up shows the proper hook up of the nyrod ends to the servo arm. The lower nyrod (chute doors) attaches to the longest hole on the servo arm, thus allowing the door latch to move first since the outer portion of the arm travels the farthest. The upper nyrod (chute spring plate) attaches two holes in from the outer arm and will travel just slightly less and slower than the chute door latch allowing the doors to open first before the chute plate fires ejecting the chute from the aircraft. Some experimentation is necessary using the transmitter ATV's to get the proper throw of the servo arm. When adjusting the travel for the latch mechanism, set the ATV to ZERO before beginning. Simply advance the ATV until the chute door and spring plate are both activated. Lock in the ATV at set the switch you are going to use. No further adjustments should be necessary.



Procedure for loading the chute for the first time:

Move the switch on the transmitter to the deploy position for the chute. Press the chute eject spring plate into position in the box. Move the switch to the locked position. The servo will close and lock the pin for the chute eject spring plate. Release the spring plate. The plate should now be locked into position. You'll notice the door pin will also move into the closed ( door locked) position. Load the chute into the box. Be careful not to snag the chute on the door latch pin. Once the chute is in the box, open the door latch pin using the finger pull and close the chute doors. Slide the latch pin in place using the latch finger pull. The chute is now ready to deploy. Hold the fuse upside down and move the chute switch to the deploy position. The chute doors should open freely and the chute should pop out of the chute box. Of course the deployment is further facilitated when air is moving over the fuse on landing, but this will serve to confirm the mechanism is installed and working properly.



BVM F-100D/F  Nose Steering Box Assembly Instructions:



After disassembling the nose steering strut, locate the cap screw on the leg assembly as shown on left.

Mount the first molded ring where shown in the photo to the left. Be sure the gear leg is free of any grease and is sanded slightly using 220 grit paper before gluing. Use Aeropoxy to glue each part in the assembly. Allow each part to at least tack in place before proceeding to the next subsequent part.





Mount ring number two as shown in the photo. The cap screw has been removed to prevent glue from getting on it.  Be sure there is room above the second ring to re-install the cap screw after the glue has cured. You'll notice the second ring's tabs line up with the lower rings tabs directly below the screw hole.







Mount the steering arm pieces as shown in the left portion of the photo. The space in between the two pieces will be just slightly thicker than 1/16" .







Carefully mount the steering box hydraulic unit as shown to the left. You may use silicone for this step to allow the unit to be removed in the event the cap screw needs to be removed to replace the lower strut assembly. Use the silicone sparingly as it will not accept paint readily.






After painting the entire assembly white, install the hydraulic lines as shown  to the left. The fitting may be painted stainless steel if desired. The tubes are bent around to the opposite side of the strut and then clamped in place at the top of the strut using the clear zip tie provided.


The photos below show the finished box mounted and the nose gear re-assembled. The steering cables are optional. Use 15# test steel leader for cables.





BVM F86F Scale Nose Gear Steering Unit Assembly Instructions:


Wash the gear legs thoroughly with solvent to remove any oils. The bead blasted finish makes a good substrate for the Aeropoxy. Assemble the parts as shown in the photos. There is no correct order to the assembly, but it is generally easiest to assemble the main pump unit first. Follow with the remainder of the parts. Final assembly of the hydraulic lines should be done after the unit has been placed in the fuse and any interference spots removed. The fit is very tight when the unit is retracted. Be sure all the parts clear the retract unit framework before allowing the glue to cure. Removing the parts after the glue cure will destroy the parts. Paint the unit and gear leg using the appropriate paint color for you variant and install the black hydraulic lines into the two holes in the top of the unit. Route the lines to the top of the strut and tie off using a clear zip tie.


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